What Doesn't Kill You

Day 13: Osmotherley to Clay Bank Top
Miles today: 16.12
Total miles: 179.37

This was by far our toughest day--we both thought it was even more difficult than the climbs in the Lake District.  Jim's Fitbit confirmed it. We ended up climbing way, way more flights of stairs today than any other day!

Today's walk started with a two mile climb out of Osmotherley (what else is new?).

It was a little hazy early in the morning so we couldn't take advantage of the beautiful views. Once we reached the top, the C2C path combines with the Cleveland Way through the moors.

We descended the hill then walked through a forest for a few miles. It was really pretty with the fog peeking through.

I could tell from the guidebook that we would be going up and down several times today (six to be exact). What I couldn't tell though was just how high and low each climb would be. At first we were excited because we were able--just barely--to see the North Sea, our ultimate destination only three more days away.

Soon, though, it was very hazy and we really couldn't see much of anything even though we were very high on the moors.  The air smelled of smoke and we kept thinking we would walk out of it but found out it was controlled burning of heather. Unfortunately, it was with us all day so we never got to see the gorgeous vistas we worked so hard for.

Every time we went up our lungs screamed and every time we went down our knees screamed. On every descent, the guidebook said "very steep".  No kidding! These paths looked straight down.  On the last ascent we came to the Wain stones--just extra big rocks at the top.  We were really happy to see them because it meant just one more time downhill and we could call for a ride to the B & B.

This part of the C2C is pretty isolated and there are no towns on the route. We stayed in Chop Gate a few miles down the road.  Wolfgang, the proprietor, along with his two giant Schnauzers (River and Tilly) came to pick us up.

Jim says the best part of this trip has been arriving in these little towns each day to a whole new cast of characters and today was no different. Wolfgang owns The Buck Inn with his wife, Helen.  Think English pub meets German hunting lodge.  Wolfgang is from Heidelberg, Germany and lived in Australia for 28 years. He came back to Europe and traveled for five years. Then he thought it would be fun to own a pub, so he bought a bankrupt pub and has spent the past five years renovating it. He's very interesting and quite a character.

Once again, we were in for a pleasant surprise at the pub. Not only did they have an ale that is brewed locally for them, they have a whole array of German beers. We did our share of tasting.  We deserved it after all those hills. They also had German food on the menu so we enjoyed another wonderful meal. I'm pretty sure I haven't lost weight on this trip even with all the walking!