We're In Deep

Day 8: Kirkby Stephen to Keld

Miles today: 15.16

Total miles: 100.68

For what it's worth, the guidebook said that today will be a 13.5 mile day so we tried to get little earlier start, knowing it wouldn't be an easy 13.5 miles. So at 9 am we set out of Kirkby Stephen. It is a cute little town and once again there was bright sunshine and clear skies so we stopped to take a few pictures but didn't dawdle because Nine Standards Rigg was looming ahead. Nine Standards is a group of nine man made rock formations high on top a hill. The peak is a five mile walk uphill from town.

Right as we approached the hill a man came bounding by us and said he was making his ninth C2C crossing but this time was doing it in a leisurely 10 days instead of his usual 8 or 9--he just doesn't have enough daylight hours this time of year to make it in less. 

He went on to tell us that his name is Albee and he used to work on the oil rigs, smoke 60 cigarettes a day and drink too much. His doctor told him he would die soon if he didn't change so he started walking...and walking...and walking. Then he was off, saying he might see us at the top because he was stopping up there for his coffee and bacon roll. We figured he would be long gone before we got there. Albee is a C2C legend so we were happy our paths crossed.

Nine Standards is a bit problematic because of the bogs on the descent. There are three routes; the green where you avoid the peak and kind of skirt down the side or the blue and red which split off from the top. I wanted to take the green route to make a slightly easier day but I knew Jim really wanted to go to the top. It was a gorgeous day and people told us you can see all the way back to the Lake District so to the top it was.

By the time we got to the top it had become cloudy, with a strong bitter wind. We rested a bit then started down. NOTHING could have prepared us for the bogs. Nick, the proprietor at the B & B told us to never step on the bright green grass as it was growing in water and the ground was not firm.

We had to test Every. Single. Step. with our walking poles to make sure we were stepping onto ground and not into the bog.

At one point, I was leaping to a bank but it wasn't solid and the next thing I knew I was thigh deep in muck. Fortunately I was able to extricate myself very quickly. Sometimes this goo will suck your shoes off and you have to leave them or dig them out. It was still awful and you can imagine what this smells like with the hundreds of sheep grazing up there. Yuck!

There was no alternative but to press on. It was a painstaking descent and very stressful. Finally, after eight miles of bogs, we were on firm, dry ground. As with other parts of this trip, once you've completed a particularly rough patch, something beautiful comes along to make you forget about it and this time it was the River Swale. Our final couple of miles were along the banks and we found out we'll be more or less following it the next few days. Sounds very peaceful!

Finally, we reached Butt House, our Keld B & B.  It is iconic along the path. Keld is significant for a couple of reasons. First, it marks the halfway point of our journey and second, we've crossed the Pennines from Cumbria into Yorkshire.

At dinner, there were nine of us; five doing the C2C, two doing the Pennine Way (the north/south trail across England) and two day walkers. It was a fun evening with everyone telling stories about their walks and future walks. Two of the C2C guys are from the Peak District and told us we "have" to visit there because of all the beautiful trails. I thought they were saying "Peat District" and didn't want any part of that!!